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BABY EARRINGS : Ear piercing was a nightmarish experience for us!! My older daughter had it done on her sixth birthday. First, they were supposed to do them both at the same time, but one hesitated. Deidre only had 1 ear pierced and the shock of how much it really hurt. We spent the next 4 hours at the mall trying to convince her to have the other one done. (She had begged us to do it to begin with.) She said that she would just grow her hair longer on one side. 6 months later her grandmother FINALLY convinced her to do it. Deidre is a tomboy and plays hard. A couple months later a kid "stepped on her ear" while playing and broke the starter stud out of her ear! Those earrings were replaced, but she became allergic to the metal -- infections. I got those special Concepts earrings -- another infection. I got her 14-K earrings -- no infection but the backs are easily lost. We were afraid of dangly hoops, even small ones, because she plays so hard. I tried a pair of 14-K baby earrings with screw on backs -- her earlobes were too fat. She them proceeded to lose and/or damage 7 pairs of my 14-K earrings. I kept trying to keep them pierced not wanting to go through the nightmare of having them done again. 3 months ago she BEGGED me to let her ears close up (she is now 9). I had her sign an agreement which states that she will NEVER AGAIN mention having her ears pierced again until she is 16. Even her 6-year-old sister who LOVES jewelry is terrified of bring up the subject...
BABY EARRINGS : That's what real, ancient electrum looks like. Check out some ancientcoins - they're not green, they're a light yellow.Yup, I hoped it would. Pure gold, alloyed with pure silver, would makefor a lousy pendant, one whose details would wear away very fast. If itwere harder, it'd last longer. As I'm not too fond of taking mybest-preserved ancient coins, and making rubber molds from them (thesulphur in the rubber will play merry hell with the coins that havesurvived 2100 years already, despite coating the coins with a spray ofmold release first) :(There is no problem to change any surfaces and details of antike coinsand Jewellry if You take two component silicon rubber for moldmaking.There are special silicons in the market.e.g. http://butschal.de/werkstatt/pr.html#gum mi
BABY EARRINGS : On Tue, 29 Apr 2003 18:00:35 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry Jeannette Cathy Wilson wrote:One thing to keep in mind is that there isn't any such thing as a single alloythat can be called "real ancient electrum". Gold and silver are both foundsingly, or together, in many ratios. California gold and Alaska gold both arefound with some silver, for example, and ancient sources varied a LOT. articlesmade of ancient alloys may tend to have surfaces that are richer in gold thanthe actual alloy, since the silver content of the surface is more easilydepleted by aging and various chemicals it may have been exposed to over time,than the gold content. And some such surface enrichment can also often be anintentional part of the original production process. The term electrum, asapplied to gold/silver alloys, covers pretty much the entire range of suchalloys, but it's more commonly applied to the alloys that are richer in silver,than in gold. The ones that are distinctly richer in gold, and thus more a goldcolor, are more commonly referred to as gold alloys, instead of electrum. Butthat's modern usage of the term. Perhaps ancient usage differs.
BABY EARRINGS : Also, a note regarding "green golds". The word green, here, is relative. Noneof these alloyhs, even the modern versions with hefty amounts of cadmium, areactually green at all. They're just paler yellows, which when held next to thetraditional gold/silver/copper alloys, appear to be a greener yellow. Butthey're still just a pale yellow. "lemon" yellow might also be descriptive.As any of these alloys add gold, the color becomes richer and richer, and withthe addition of copper, the coller becomes more and more orangy or coppery,which we then call rose or red golds, even though they aren't at all actuallyred.On Tue, 29 Apr 2003 18:00:35 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry Jeannette Cathy Wilson wrote:Don't use traditional natural rubber compounds on these. The silicone basedrubbers will not change the surface. I'd bet the vulcanizable silicone rubberswould be safe, but for even greater safety, with no change to the coins, usethe pourable "room temperature vulcanizing" rubbers. There are several types.The liquid RTV rubbers are two part mixes, need (for many of them) vacuuming,but produce production quality molds of very high quality. Because they're roomtemp compounds, you can use soft wax rod for the sprue rod while molding, andyou won't need any sprays or anything either on the coin while molding, or laterwhen injecting. The only caution you'll need is to be sure you don't scratchthe coin with the mold knife when cutting the mold.
BABY EARRINGS : Castaldo also produces a putty type of silicone rubber. You mix two putty-likeparts, knead to even color, and pack your mold, fairly quickly. No vulcanizerneeded, it's room temp, and is ready to cut open in, if I remember right, underan hour or so. The silastic liquids take 24 hours to cure. The Castaldo putty(called quick-Sil), gives a much softer rubber which can be a little moredifficult to work with, since the molds are more easily distorted wheninjecting, and more easily damaged, and they're not as strong as the pourablesilastic rubbers, but for low production amounts, it's a quite convenientmaterial, and you don't need to bother with vacuuming the stuff either.By the way, your wish to harden your electrum by using sterling silver as thesilver source will help a little, but not all THAT much. most gold alloys withsilver and copper use more than a couple percent of copper. If you can arrangeto physically work harden the metal in the process of making your piece, you'llget much more significant hardening, but of course you also then have to avoidannealing it in the process either.
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