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JEWELRY BOX : He also contributes to rec.woodworking so if you get stuck he may be willing to bail you out.From: ()Subject: Re: Jewelry Box Plan Newsgroups: Date: 2000/03/30 In article , wrote:My new book, Simply Beautiful Boxes, will be available around the first ofMay. A preview of it can be found on my website at Tony Lydgate's books also have some good design ideas. They feature a widerange of designs by lots of different boxmakers. "Jewelry Box" has becomesuch a broad concept. I can see why it would be difficult for someone tofind plans for just "the right box". Box plans are a good way to learntechniques, but to make a jewelry box for one's bride can be a verypersonal thing. If I were in his shoes, I would review as many designideas as I could, then take the parts that best apply to the needs of SheWho May Be Worshipped and Adored (SWMBWA) and create something new. Thegreat thing about jewelry boxes is that there are no hard and fast rulesthat apply. Make it functional and from beautiful wood--add elements offun to it. We are in an anything goes period with jewelry boxes. Andthey are a great way to cut loose in the design world.
JEWELRY BOX : Thanks for the reply. You talk about using good wood onthe box and thatis my big problem. I don't have a planner or a jointer so I am limitedto what stock I can pick up cut to size. I usually buy at the local homeand garden (Chase Pitkin or Home Depot). They seem to have a good butlimited supply of Oak and Poplar. I've had problems with Oak in the pastso the train display case I just started is using Poplar but I'm stillnot sure how it will stain or fit together.There is a saw mill in town that sells some nice wood but not sure howto cut it to thickness. I have most of the other toys so ripping andcross cutting is not a problem.Ron, the first thing you may want to do is find a good source of lumber. Local sawmills may be good for the long run, but to have wood you can useright now (the fresh milled wood is not suitable), you may need to lookbeyond the sources you mention. The 3/4" stock they probably carry isn'tthe best choice for making something delicate and refined for your brideto be. There are places to buy on the net, but my personal preference isto select myself rather than rely on someone else's idea of what I need.
JEWELRY BOX : Personally, I would prefer poplar to the oak, as oak has very strong grainwhich may be hard to use effectively in a jewelry box design. White oakis better, but I suspect HD has red. As a matter of personal preference,I'd choose to not stain it.From your earlier post, I suspect that the jewelry box you have in mind,being more complicated that the simple boxes you found in your search, mayalso be a bit beyond your experience and tool capacity at the momentunless you team up with a friend having a planer and jointer.Could it be you are rushing into things? I don't mean the marriage. Would it make sense to wait on the jewelry box and practice yourwoodworking skills on such things as coffee tables, end tables andnightstands? In the meantime, you can buy an inexpensive jewelry box forher with a note about how you plan to make her a jewelry box reallyfitting her beauty and grace after your skills are perfected? That wayshe will be well prepared prior to your marriage for your long hours inthe woodshop and outlandish expenditures for tools and materials. Shewill know you are "practicing."
JEWELRY BOX : If you are determined to make the jewelry box despite my rudeintervention, resawing to thinner dimensions can be done on the table saw(tricky and not as safe as with a band saw) and a friend with a planer canbe your saving grace and an opportunity for a great deal of sharedinformation and fun. He could also take this as an opportunity to learn to resaw by handor get some handplanes and learn to thickness wood by hand. Once helearns those skills, he won't be limited by the normal thicknessavailable. (And if he learns to re-saw, he can make the really finewoods go further. I just did that yesterday, getting two 3/8" x36" pieces of mesquite from a 7/8" board. It just takes patience and agood rip saw.) As long as Doug is participating in this thread, I've got a question.I've read your book and one of the Lydgate books on box-making, and inbetween large projects I'm working on some prototype box designs that Ihope to turn into something that I can sell at a local arts/craftsstore.
JEWELRY BOX : My question is regarding the "invisible pin hinges" that are used onmany fine boxes. I have been having a problem with clearance for therear of the lid opening. I have fiddled around with the position fordrilling the holes for these, figuring that if I have a 3/8" thick lid,I should drill the hole slightly less than 3/8" in from the inside ofthe back of the box. However, I am also building these so that the lidis sitting in a rabbet, and that seems to be where I am having problems.(I have been rounding over the bottom of the lid and rabbet edge, but itseems to be hit-or-miss. I know I can always cut a slight half-moonshape into the side rabbets, but that doesn't strike me as aestheticallypleasing.) Is there a simple formula for calculating the position of the holesfor these hinges? Something like lid thickness minus rabbet width minus1/16"? My concern is that it seems like these holes will be awfullyclose to the back of the lid.
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