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JEWELRY RINGS : Let's be honest and admit that even E-6000 may fall apart. Many of my friendsus it in their collage jewelry . . . customers take these beautiful items homeand they "may fall apart" before the end of the week. On Sun, 21 Oct 2001 21:25:12 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry (Fishbre396) wrote:True. Any glue may fall apart if you exceed the capabilities of the bond, ordon't use it right. Like any glue, E-6000 works best on clean surfaces, andwhen the bond is allowed to remain undisturbed untill it's fully cured. Collagejewelery also is often made from items that don't even begin to approach somesort of a fit between bonded parts, with disimilar bits and pieces sometimespresenting small surface areas, plated or painted or otherwise insecure surfacesfor a bond, and all sorts of other such potential failure points for a gluebond. Often it's the item itself, not the glue that fails. The glue itselfseldom falls apart. But items glued together can fall apart for reasons otherthan glue failure. The same holds true for epoxies and super glues.
JEWELRY RINGS : For non-porous parts with a very close (capillary) fit, the cyanoacrylate basedglues (super glues) are often the strongest. They aren't for all materials(plastics often don't work well), and flexible items don't work well either, asthe bonds are rigid, not flexible. These glues are strongest when the gluelayer is as thin as possible, and without an excess of glue (two drops can beweaker than one drop...) Super glues are not as water resistant as epoxies orsome solvent based glues (like E-6000), and if the bond geometry allows shearforces to be placed on the bond, the bonds can often be easily fractured, as theset glue is quite brittle.For parts needing a LITTLE flexibility in a bond, and more importantly, wherethe fit isn't as good, or where it may be desired to be able to unglue the piecewith solvents, then epoxies are often a better choice, as they have much bettergap filling ability, and retain a little flexibility with some brands of epoxy(not all). The slower setting types are much more water resistant than the veryfast "5 minute" types of epoxy. Epoxies are also the best choice when there's achance the items may not be perfectly clean, such as some kinds of oily woods.Of course, clean items always will bond a lot better than those less clean, asyou want to bond the items, not the film of dirt or oil... With most epoxies,the big thing to watch, beyond cleanliness, is that you get the ratio of theresin and hardener exactly as specified, usually 1:1 ratio. With some epoxies,the bond strength can be lessened by as much as 50% with a mismatch of the tworesins of as little as 10%. Usually, this means you'll need to mix up moreepoxy than you'll need for a small job, in order to be sure of getting the twoparts equally dispensed and mixed. My own favorite method is to use a smallbattery type carat/gram scale to actually weigh out the two parts, thus ensuringthat I've got the ratio accuratly measured. With proper cleaning of the work,and proper measuring and mixing of the glue, epoxies have probably the highest
JEWELRY RINGS : I'll have to print this one out .... and keep it to refer back to every now& then.What I'll be doing .... is gluing shank buttons - to the back of bakedpolymer clay, and the clay will all ready have the indentation for theprotruding part of the pin back. I don't foresee allot of twisting andturning .... or rough handling of the buttons ... once they're glued on.It seems that one of the solvent-based glues might work fine, as long as Imake sure that the backs of both the clay pin and the button is clean.If you're saying E-6000 isn't dependable, what do YOU use ........ if youuse glue, or what would you recommend then? Any suggestions?I still think I'll give it a try ...... along with another brand I was toldabout ... in another forum, that is more professional.
JEWELRY RINGS : You're the second person to suggest E-6000. I'm going into the city today,so I'll be sure to look for it! :-)I have tons of experience with E6000. If the surfaces are properly prepared,you will create a (for all practical purposes) permanent bond. I sometimeshave people I've sold jewelry to call me back, but never in regards to thebreakage of a glue joint. They call me in regards to the fact that they'velost one of the pair of earrings, and could I make a matching item?It's a very effective adhesive, but the surfaces need to have a tooth(roughed up with emery or whatever, and cleaned) AND, it's a very good ideato use E6000 fresh from the tube. E6000 degrades in strength once it startsto set up, so be careful. If you do a bunch of glue-ups at the same timefrom a blob of E6000 that's been squeezed onto a piece of cardboard, youmight run into trouble. That's because the E6000 begins to set-up quickly.Once E6000 begins to set-up it souldn't be disturbed, otherwise the bondwill be drastically weakened.
JEWELRY RINGS : What are the advantages and disadvantages of stainless steel jewellerycompared to silver jewellery? What is the price diference? Which is moredurable? Anyadvice, suggestion or link is welcome!I also would like to know this .... as I've seen some very expensive piecesonline, designed by some very well known jewelry artists.Both stainless and silver will be pretty durable, although stainless willlikely outlast silver in retaining a shine / evading tarnish.The answer, though, in terms of price is "not much" if you're talking aboutwell-known jewelry artists. The reason isn't the preciousness of the metalused, but the artistry that you're buying. Good artists may use verylow-cost and common materials (paper, river stones, beetle wings) in theirhigh-end pieces because these materials have exactly the look that they aregoing for. But they bring a level of artistry to it that makes it worthevery dollar of the high cost of the piece.
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