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OCTAGON BEADS : I am trying to perfect my bead detailing. I have some rough turnedhollow-forms that I would like to put them on. How do folks turn thesebeads? Skew? Captive Ring tool? The size bead that I am shooting for isabout 1/8" - 1/4" in diameter. Any inputs will be appreciated.When you say "hollow-forms" I assume that you mean with grain runningparallel with the axis of the turning.For spindle work, I find the easiest tool to turn small beads with is a1/8" parting tool. Just think of it as a very narrow skew with a longbevel. By rolling the wrist and swinging the end of the handle, it isvery easy to turn small, even beads with very little chance of a catch.Very small skews seem to flex to much. I don't like skews smaller than1/2" and a 1/2" skew is awkward for turning a 1/8" bead. Some like 1/4"round skews but I find them a little too "whippy". A 1/4" short, handmade skew would probably work quite well.
OCTAGON BEADS : You can successfully turn beads in the size range you list in a number of ways. For a 1/8" beads, I do one of two things. I sometimes cut a square form about 1/8" wide and 1/16" tall. I then flat the corners at 45 degrees with a gouge or a skew. The plofile at this point is half an octagon. Then, you can simply sand it round. This will work with a 1/4" bead, but will require quite a bit more sanding. The other technique I use for small beads is to turn them with a 1/4" spindle gouge. For 1/4" beads, I use the above techniques, though with a 3/8" spindle gouge. Sometimes I use my 3/4" skew. It sometimes depends on what tool is in hand at the moment. I generally don't like the finish I get with the beading tools, so I don't use them.
OCTAGON BEADS : Trent Bosch demonstrated a beading tool made from a gouge. If you start with a round-fluted (U shaped vs "v" shaped) bowl gouge that is ground straight across the tip like a roughing gouge. Then grind the nose bevel to about 40 degrees, but don't roll the tool or gind off the ears/wings. Grind away metal until the bevel surface goes all the way up the sides of the flute to the point. You end up with two sharp points where the top of the flute meets the bevel. The resulting tip makes for a beading tool that is easily sharpened. the bead diameter is the diameter of the flute. I did this with an old, deep-fluted spindle gouge and it worked pretty good.
OCTAGON BEADS : Hi,About 4-5 years ago I attended a demonstration done by Jean FrancoisEsculon(sp?). He used a bedan on a LOT of his work, and I've foound itvery useful for beading and captive rings. For those who haven't used,or seen, a bedan, it resembles a regular woodworking chisel, usuallyabout 3/16in to 3/8 in wide, with the sides ground so that the longestpart of the bevel is the widest part of the tool. Some may be biggerthan this, but I haven't seen them. I have seen them listed in one ofthe woodturner catalogs (Packard, I think). I have ground one of mywood chisels to the desired shape, and use it. In use it is handledlike a parting tool with bevel rubbing, or it can be used bevel up andthe tool at an angle sort of like a skew. It sounds complicated, and Idon't know if my explanation is clear enough, but if you see it done,it comes a lot more understandable.By the way, if you ever get a chance to see this guy demonstrate, hockthe kids for gas money if you have to, but go see him. He says thatwoodturning in the european countries is mostly for utilitarianpurposes, and not many turn for artistic work. He has also developed achuck for off center turning, and it's available in the US through"The Cutting Edge" in Houston, and possibily others that I don't knowabout. I haven't seen any books or videos from him, but he teaches inhis studio in France, and his students stay with him domitory stylewhile attending his courses. Good luck,Ken Moon
OCTAGON BEADS : ******************************** Joe Fleming wrote in message ...I'm new to turning, so I'm still on the steep portion of the learning curve, but I'll share what I've learned from a few classes I've taken and from my own experience.I've tried using a skew (1/2") and find that it works very nicely as long as I'm really alert. I start at the right-angle shoulder of the soon-to-become bead, making a couple of passes in the air getting the rolling motion down. I then lower the skew to pick up the lightest cut across a very small portion of the corner with the heel of the skew. With each pass, I start with the heel of the skew a little further from the edge (i.e., closer to the center of the bead), rolling further down the side face of the bead, until my final pass, ending with the edge vertical and the bevel perpendicular to the axis of the work.
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