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WOOD JEWELRY BOXES : LOL. You're right, you don't need a moisture meter to make jewelryboxes. You see, marquetry is my full time hobby, but my full time jobis actually importing hardwood flooring from Paraguay and selling itwholesale here in the US. I use the moisture meter to check themoisture content to make sure the flooring didn't pick up excessivemoisture on its journey over here by ship. We use the prong moisturemeters in Paraguay as we have kilns in which we dry the wood, and thusneed to have very accurate readings.So, there you have it, mystery uncovered. If you are at allinterested you could go have a look at our web site atThanks Jane! Yes, mystery solved. I hadn't a clue. It's nice to becorrect from time to time -- and one of these days I'm going to givebeing right a try just for the novelty of the experience. I couldn'tbegin to imagine why one would need to measure the moisture content ofwood used for marquetry! Happy Woodworking -- Ronnie Henry
WOOD JEWELRY BOXES : I have a small shop in my garage that is only heated when I'm in itworking. Will the constant changes in temp. have an effect on the woodmoisture content of the wood stored in it? Can anyone suggest a goodmoisture meter. what's better pins or pinlessYes, the temperature and humidity conditions control the MC of wood, butthis is a dynamic, ever-changing situation. Once the wood has lost its freewater and has been dried down to below 30% or less, the bound water contentwill typically vary from just below 10% for newly kiln-dried wood to justabove 18% for air-dried wood in cool, damp conditions. Most wood thoughstays on average between 12-14% independent of these two drying methods. Inother words, save your money and don't worry about it. Even if you want todry you own wood, the proper technique will outweigh the need for a moisturemeter.
WOOD JEWELRY BOXES : Is there any company that sells just the fabric and foam type insertthat goes in jewelry boxes (like the ones you see in the stores. I'mlooking for just the insert and not the entire box as I would like tomake my own.I hope any responses you get are posted publicly; I'd likethis information, alsoJewelry boxes don't come in standard sizes, to my knowledge, and I've neverseen any inserts for sale.If you mean by 'insert' the padded bottom of the box, the simplest method: Buy a good piece of velvet or velour. Cut illustration board or foam board to fit the bottom of the boxloosely (1/8 ot 1/16 in slack). Spray the board back with photo mount or other spary mount. Wrap the velvet around the front of the board and press onto the back. Push your new insert into the box.
WOOD JEWELRY BOXES : Best books on jewelry box making: "The Art of Making Elegant Jewelry Boxes," by Tony Lidgate,Sterling/Chapelle, 1996, or any other book on box making by this author. This one also hasinstructions for more interesting inserts like ring props, etc. "The Bood of Boxes," Andrew Crawford, Running Press Philadelphia,1993. Better than the Lidgate books, but harder to find. "Reading the Wood," Michael Elkan, Sterling/Chapelle, 1996. Get thisone if you own a band saw! Po Shun Leong also has a book out on jewelry box making that I oftencheck out of my library, but I havn't all the info on hand.The type of material you are looking for is a flocked foamrubber or flocked styrene. The flocked styrene can bevacuim formmed into shape. The flocked foam rubber can becut to size. The flocked styrine is available at a companycalled Flock Tex. 1 800 556 7286. If they dont carry theflocked foam rubber they can tell you who would. If youcan not find it otherwise Email me and I will look it upfor you. I have samples at my office and I can find thecompany names for you. I can also give you someinformation on a simple vacuimforming machine you canbuild.
WOOD JEWELRY BOXES : Is it possible to make (and learn ) nice quality small size jewelry typeboxes without a lot $$$ and with only the equivalent of hand tools? Ifso, can anyone reccommend a good book about it. I have no table saws orthings like but would love to learn how to work with wood. Problem is Idon't know where to start.While it is very much possible to make nice boxes without expensive tools,you will have to buy your wood, for the most part, pre-saw and dimensioned.You will have to practice your techniques to get to where you can cutstraight lines. And since most jewelry boxes is made from thin stocks,resawing can be done usually at a supplier. My hardwood supplier will joint,plane and dimension stock for me - all for a price....ie 20 cents a foot forjointing a board...
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